A WAISTCOAT FOR MORNING DRESS
I was finishing off this double-breasted waistcoat to go with morning dress last week. It is made in a fawn hopsack, 12 ounce, with mother-of-pearl buttons that match the lining and white Marcella Demis. The Demis is detachable, fastened to the inside of the lapel with a row of three buttons. I think this is so that the Marcella can be cleaned easily – it will dirty a lot quicker than the hopsack.
Although the fawn colour is lovely, there is a lot of variation is what men like a waistcoat like this. Pastels are very popular, yellows and blues for example. The lining is a heavy silk, which some men like in a formal garment like this; they like the crispy handle to it.
It has a peak lapel, which is slightly scooped out in the cut and then tacked down. This is specific to morning dress and is how Anderson & Sheppard has always cut the waistcoat. It needs to be tacked down because otherwise it would be floating around everywhere. Some other tailors close that peak more, and in fact some of the cutters here prefer a shawl collar. They think it is a cleaner look. It’s a matter of taste really.