POSTS IN CATEGORY 'Cutting'
We are extremely proud to be part of the current exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art, New York, “Items: Is Fashion Modern?”. The exhibition explores the present, past—and sometime... Read More
I have been working under Les as a coat cutter for over a year now and one of my favourite parts of the bespoke process it striking in. Les has spent a lot of time showing me how to strike in correctl... Read More
Our team have started work on a smoking jacket and trousers for Jimmy Beaumont of The Beaumont Hotel. London Craft Week 3rd to 7th May, is an annual showcase of the best of British creativity and... Read More
Inside our cutting room today  is Head Coat Cutter Danny Hall, Head Trouser Cutter John Malone, Coat Cutter Leslie Haynes, Coat Cutter Ollie Trenchard, Trimmer Micheal Bison, Aprrentice Cutter Ma... Read More
It’s been a busy period for all of us at Anderson & Sheppard. Many new orders in the pipeline and one in particular caught my eye so let me take you through what happens in the cutting room.Over... Read More
New Year’s resolutions are a must and 2016 was no exception. As an apprentice in the cutting room I’ve decided to make myself a pair of trousers. It’s an essential part of becoming a... Read More
As an apprentice cutter, striking in jobs under Mr Hall's supervision is a job that I undertake. With any job the first step is to check the cloth for any faults that it may have. We also check the pi... Read More
Inside our cutting room today is Managing Director Colin Heywood, Head Coat Cutter Danny Hall, Head Trouser Cutter John Malone, Coat Cutter Leslie Haynes, Trouser Cutter Oliver Spencer, Coat Cutter Ol... Read More
A lesser explored aspect of bespoke tailoring is that of garment finishing. Once a customer has had his first fitting the garment is sent back to his coat maker. From this point onwards the garment is... Read More
Coat Cutter Leon Powell making a Navy Woollen Double Breasted Jacket.We are looking forward to displaying the Jacket at an exhibition in Florence this month Read More
Whilst pressing may not be the most glamourous aspect of tailoring it is a very important step in the production process nonetheless. Pressing gives a chance for quality control; cutters must be looki... Read More
As mentioned by Matthew, our trimmer Michael has been away so the task of trimming over the past month therefore fell to us. When I was first welcomed to Anderson & Sheppard; jacket trimming was somet... Read More
Over the past few weeks our trimmer, Michael Bison had been away due to a minor accident playing football.  While he was gone we had a lot of work on our hands; however this experience has given ... Read More
The thought of pockets might not be the first thing that comes to mind when someone thinks of their suit; however the wide variety of style options and choices can add a new dynamic. From our standard... Read More
As the Trimmer at Anderson & Sheppard, I take great pride in preparing the trimmings,  including canvas, melton, linings and buttons.I receive the cloth, that has expertly cut by one of our Cutte... Read More
As an apprentice Cutter under Mr Hitchcock, I have worked on many facets of cutting and fitting during my 3 and a half years at Anderson and Sheppard.  The process of drafting a pattern is challe... Read More
The mid grey triple stripe is back after a leave of absence and numerous requests. Designed exclusively for us by cloth merchant H. Lesser, in 2000 we refined the design by bringing the three stripes ... Read More
What makes the difference between something being good versus excellent is its attention to detail. When it comes to the cloth, Mr. Hitchcock will match the design at every opportunity. While cutting ... Read More
In the year since I last contributed to The Notebook, I’ve gradually developed my tailoring skills to improve both accuracy and speed.I work under Paolo Nicodemi, and he’s been very good a... Read More
This basted fitting is in a fancy navy cloth, with alternating beaded stripes. From a distance, a sober business combination, but hidden depths Read More
Once the customer has been measured and a pattern created, that pattern is laid out on the cloth in order to cut out – strike – the various parts of it. In fact, we have usually laid out t... Read More
A single breasted jacket in fawn corduroy, ready for a forward fitting. Particularly nice are the slanted pockets, which include a ticket pocket Read More
I wrote recently about taking on my first customer at Anderson & Sheppard and creating his pattern. The first fitting with him – the next stage in the bespoke process – took place a couple... Read More
Black tie with grosgrain-covered buttons. Three piece, the details of the waistcoat show the work around the horseshoe-shaped opening of the lapels. One button, with jetted pockets on the coat Read More
Once the cloth for a suit is cut, the various trimmings need to be added to it before it can all be sent to the appropriate tailor.There are three different parts to the structure of the chest: linen ... Read More
A tropical-weight pinstripe suit, double breasted in a Super-150 cloth. It will feature cuffs on the sleeves Read More
Mr Hitchcock has been working with myself and Ollie recently to learn the lays for white tie – how you arrange all the various parts of the coat and waistcoat out on the cloth.While the forepart... Read More
There's a great shape to the lapels on this green-velvet smoking jacket, and it's a nice excuse to highlight the work on the frogging too, on both the fronts and cuffs Read More
It’s the time of year again when members of the Anderson & Sheppard cutting room who go in with customers, who need to represent the firm by wearing A&S garments, have a stock suit made. Most of... Read More
When customers know what they want in a style, they will sometimes order many of the same model in different colours, to give themselves the greatest range of options.That was the case with the custom... Read More
When we have finished using a customer’s paper pattern it is put under Mr Hitchcock’s board. There are two shelves there: one for patterns waiting to be cut and one for ones that have been... Read More
Myself and Finnan started learning to cut coats properly just before Christmas. Mr Hitchcock began by showing us the basics and a few weeks later we’re beginning to get the hang of aspects of it... Read More
I was finishing off this double-breasted waistcoat to go with morning dress last week. It is made in a fawn hopsack, 12 ounce, with mother-of-pearl buttons that match the lining and white Marcella Dem... Read More
In my last post on trouser style options, I mentioned the different ways of adjusting the waist: strap and buckle, belt loops or buttons. The white trousers pictured had a strap and buckle. Above is t... Read More
The trouser fitting usually takes place on the same day as the jacket fitting. However, the trousers would normally be tried on first so that the customer can see the trousers on their own and then al... Read More
Most customers fall into one of two camps with trousers. If they have had suits made before, they probably have a consistent style and stick with that across most pairs of trousers – style in tr... Read More
Over the past few weeks I’ve been learning aspects of how to make a coat. As a cutter, that’s not what I will do day to day once I’ve finished my apprenticeship, but it’s a use... Read More
This is a dress coat for a hunt ball. You can tell because the lapel is white – on an actual hunting coat the lapel would be red. The collar varies depending on the hunt the wearer belongs to. T... Read More
Of the two standard lengths of britches, plus-fours are more traditional than plus-twos (the number indicating how many inches below the knee they fall). Four inches gives you more room to move; it is... Read More
The past couple of weeks I’ve been striking out for the first time – marking the patterns onto the cloth, with chalk – under the supervision of Mr Hitchcock. I’ve been practisi... Read More
 I got my shears in August last year, one year after I joined. I was involved with an exhibition we had at the Victoria & Albert Museum and it seemed as good a time as any. Anderson & Sheppard no... Read More
This past month I’ve been learning a lot about the different lays for different types of suit. A lay is the way the sections of a suit are arranged on the cloth, and there are lots of permutatio... Read More
I tried a few different technical things with the trousers I made for myself for the MTBA summer party earlier this year.I made them with a single pleat rather than the normal two, and rather than jus... Read More
The past couple of weeks I’ve been striking out for the first time – marking the patterns onto the cloth, with chalk – under the supervision of Mr Hitchcock. I’ve been practisi... Read More
The way that a pair of trousers tapers from a customer’s hip down through his knee to the bottom depends on a number of factors, including his body shape and his personal taste.This pattern for ... Read More
Many men these days prefer plain-front trousers, but I’ve always liked pleats. It creates a natural, sharp line to the front of the trouser, giving shape to the front of the garment. The Anderso... Read More
When I first joined Anderson & Sheppard I quickly realised there was a lot to learn about how the organisation works and every process is related. You just have to observe the logistics, the customer ... Read More