RAISED SIDE SEAMS

Finnan Tratan trosers Anderson & Sheppard (6)

I am currently making a pair of tartan check trousers from cloth that was cut at the bespoke shop.

I sewed the cloth into two separate trouser legs. I then go on to press them but because this particular pair has a raised side seam I have to press them differently. Usually with other trouser you would press the seam open but with this pair I have to press the back in lay on to the top inlay. 

 

Finnan Tratan trosers Anderson & Sheppard (2)

I leave out some extra cloth on the surface which we call a lip; this allows the seams to overlap creating what we call a raised seam.

Finnan Tratan trosers Anderson & Sheppard (3)

Then I put the tacks in the pocket at the top and bottom and I stitch the whole way down the length of the side seam about 3/8 of an inch in to hold it in place so it doesn’t open again.

Finnan Tratan trosers Anderson & Sheppard (5)

 

 

I AM LONDON LAUNCH PARTY

 

Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (22)Last Thursday was the launch party for the I Am London exhibition where myself and 59 other Londoners had our portraits displayed.

The event was held at Central Saint Martin’s building in Granary Square and was hosted by the team at Historic England as part of a campaign which encourages Londoners to notice, celebrate and speak up for the heritage of the city. Each person’s particular London story is bound up in the place we chose, it was a very inspiring thing to be part of.

Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (50)

It was so exciting to see my picture up on display among such cool, interesting and inspiring people. I had some amazing conversation with the other selected Londoners and many of the guests that were in attendance. I was particularly impressed by Marianne Cwynarski  who is Head of Communications at the House of Commons, she was lovely and  also had an amazing photograph taken in the Commons. I had the chance to see how varied Londoners are; reading through statements in the book allowed me to see the many different ways that London has shaped individuals.

Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (25)

Everybody was in great spirits and there was lovely food and drink provided. I was accompanied by Keith and Michael and I can definitely say that had as good a time as I did! I would like to thank everybody at Historic London for including me in this fantastic campaign and exhibition.

Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (18) Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (38) Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (61) Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (29) Liberty Anderson& Sheppard Historic London (27) WP_20160714_013

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BEPOKE TAILORING HERO: TEXTILE AGENT GARETH CROW

Gareth Crowe Anderson & Sheppard (3)

Textile agent Gareth Crowe popped into the bespoke shop to show us some new cloth and have a quick chat with us.

 

How would you describe your job role?

I am a UK textile agent, my role is to represent Loro Piana in the UK. I ensure the tailors see the new ranges of cloth and that I am of  help to them at all times. As I am freelance I work independently but I am currently employed by Loro Piana.

How did you get started in the trade?

I started at 16, my first job was in a tailor’s shop in Cork Street; I was trimming, undercutting and striking out.  I had managed to get the interview through Burlington Arcade not ever knowing this part of London before. That was my first step in the industry and I have been here for 55 years working all over, from managing Gieves and Hawkes tailoring department, working at Turnball & Asser, Scabal and Hunters of Brora. I have been with Loro Piana for the past sixteen years and it has been fantastic, the quality of their product and service is exceptional.

Who do you represent?

Just Loro Piana at the moment, I was the first person to introduce them to the UK tailors.  I think they had tried before with Italian agents but it wasn’t as successful. I understood the tradition of Savile Row and have been here for so long so the relationships I have of course helped me. I had always had an interest in the Loro Piana cloth; I was working at Hunter of Brora and the managing director there at the time was a good friend and he advised me to go for a job at Loro Piana. Hunters of Brora wrote a letter to them on behalf of me and next thing you know I was flying out to Italy for an interview.

How has the trade changed over the years?

Well in the old days if you went into another shop and you saw another rep you wouldn’t dare go in, you would let them finish and come back later. Today that wouldn’t be a problem, there is a shared recognition that everybody has their own niche and we all respect that. We know what we do and what we sell; I would say it is much easier now. Of course one of the main changes over the years has been in the bunches; when I first came into the trade there were hardly any bunches and tailors would stock in cloth in house.

I can certainly say that there has been a big change in the way people dress; it is much more casual now. Reps years ago would all wear bowler hats in winter and panama hats in the summer and definitely always wear a tie, that’s all gone now.

What is your favourite aspect of the job?

Introducing new fabrics and talking to people; I get energy from interacting with others. I have been in the business such a long time and all the people here are so great, certain things have changed but the feeling of community still remains.

 

Gareth Crowe Anderson & Sheppard (1) Gareth Crowe Anderson & Sheppard (2)

Garteh Crowe Anderson & Sheppard

I AM LONDON EXHIBITION

Liberty I Am London

I was recently selected to participate in the I Am London exhibition; staged by Historic England  the wonderful presentation celebrates the cities unique and complex identity.  The exhibition features 60 Londoners at a historic building and each person’s unique London story is bound up in the place they have chosen.

I was of course pictured at 32 Old Burlington Street; to me it is the place that my whole journey started. I walked into that building and was given an opportunity that has shaped me and allowed me to start on this path as an apprentice coat maker. Growing up in Cambridge and moving to London was a change but this city has been nothing but amazing for me. We also had to donate an object that represents us to display at the exhibition and I gave them the meter ruler I have been using since I began here.

Famous Londoners featured includes Professor Lord Robert Winston, AC Grayling, Caroline Criado Perez, Bob and Roberta Smith designer and placemaker Morag Myerscough and Amy Lamé join “unsung Londoners” to tell their stories.

Robert Winston, Primrose Hill. Lord Winston is Professor of Science and Society and Emeritus Professor of Fertility Studies at Imperial College London. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Robert Winston, Primrose Hill. Lord Winston is Professor of Science and Society and Emeritus Professor of Fertility Studies at Imperial College London. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Marianne Cwynarski, Parliament. Marianne works in the House of Commons and chairs the Workplace Equality Network ParliREACH © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Marianne Cwynarski, Parliament. Marianne works in the House of Commons and chairs the Workplace Equality Network ParliREACH © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

From the longest running businesses in Smithfield, Billingsgate, Borough and Columbia Road markets and a Yeoman Warder, often known as a Beefeater, at the Tower of London to a 7/7 paramedic and a student at the Royal School of Needlework to one of the founders of the Notting Hill Carnival, these people represent the complexity and character of London.

Duncan Wilson, Chief Executive of Historic England, said: “The buildings and places that make up London are as much a part of the city’s DNA as the people who live and work in it. In fact, the fortunes of London’s people and its places are inextricably linked. If we lose those historic places, we lose London’s identity.”

Kate Barlow, In front of the 'Wall of Wool', Royal School of Needlework. Kate is a current Future Tutors student at the Royal School of Needlework. Founded in 1872 and based in Hampton Court Palace, the Royal School of Needlework is the international centre of excellence for the art of hand embroidery. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Kate Barlow, In front of the ‘Wall of Wool’, Royal School of Needlework. Kate is a current Future Tutors student at the Royal School of Needlework. Founded in 1872 and based in Hampton Court Palace, the Royal School of Needlework is the international centre of excellence for the art of hand embroidery. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Stephen Andrade and Rob Silverman, Smithfield Market. D Andrade & Sons is the oldest family business in Smithfield meat market and will be 150 years old in 2018. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Stephen Andrade and Rob Silverman, Smithfield Market. D Andrade & Sons is the oldest family business in Smithfield meat market and will be 150 years old in 2018. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

I am very honoured and extremely excited to be involved in this exhibition alongside such lovely people. The exhibition will be displayed in the Windows Galleries at Central Saint Martins from 11th July to 4th September 2016.

To visit the site and read more click here.

Bisi Alimi, Tower Bridge. Bisi Alimi is a human rights campaigner. In 2004 became the first Nigerian to openly declare his sexuality on national television. After increased threats to his life he moved to the UK, where he was granted asylum in 2008. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Bisi Alimi, Tower Bridge. Bisi Alimi is a human rights campaigner. In 2004 became the first Nigerian to openly declare his sexuality on national television. After increased threats to his life he moved to the UK, where he was granted asylum in 2008. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Scottee, Roundhouse. Scottee is a performance artist and writer from Kentish Town. He is currently an associate artist at the Roundhouse, Chalk Farm. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

Scottee, Roundhouse. Scottee is a performance artist and writer from Kentish Town. He is currently an associate artist at the Roundhouse, Chalk Farm. © Historic England/Chris Redgrave

A PAIR OF TARTANS

FullSizeRender[1]It’s been a busy period for all of us at Anderson & Sheppard. Many new orders in the pipeline and one in particular caught my eye so let me take you through what happens in the cutting room.

Over the last few days we received an order for a pair of tartan trousers. As this is a more complex job to cut I thought I could share my experience. Once a customer selects their cloth of choice, an order is placed and sometimes it is necessary to check measurements. This is done if a customer’s configurations have changed. The pattern is then altered and a length is given.Anderson& Sheppard tartan shears

This procedure requires an economical arrangement of pattern pieces, bearing in mind things such as; type of cloth used and all the required fit up. I say this because some cloths tend to have a nap or a pile- interlaced secondary yarn that creates a fuzzy surface which is often easily spotted on velvet and corduroy. If so, this means that it has to be cut one way in order to prevent any shade differences.  For any of you who are wondering what a fit up is; whilst arranging the pattern a cutter would allocate space for all elements of construction. In relation to trousers, this would cover: waistband, pocket facings, fly, loops or straps, jetting’s and so on.

Tartan trousers (3)

One of the most important aspects when cutting a checked cloth is to match it on both the top side and underside. This might seem simple, however more often than not the top layer of cloth has to be shrunk as the checks are not matching exactly as they should be.

Shrinking is done by pinning the top layer of cloth to the bottom in the ideal place. By using steam, puckers are shrunk and this may take some time and patience but it is possible since wool fibers react to steam.

Once the job is cut it is than trimmed and ready to be given to one of our trouser makers.

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Ashleigh
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Matthew
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Mike
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Colin Heywood
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Hajar
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Keith
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Michael
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Michael Gardener
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Alicia Pile
No description available. More