CHARMED LIFE: THE PHENOMENAL WORLD OF PHILIP SASSOON

Philip Sassoon Anderson & Sheppard

Charmed Life: The Phenomenal World of Philip Sassoon is the latest edition to our coffee table book collection. It tells the story of a fascinating man who connected the great politicians, artists and thinkers at the height of British global power and influence. Many thanks to Damian Collins for sending it to us. Anderson & Sheppard is mentioned on page 109:

“Phillip’s tailor was the Swede Per Anderson, from Anderson & Sheppard, then at number 13, who regarded Scholte as his mentor. Scholte revolutionized men’s fashion and brought Savile Row into the twentieth century through the creation of what became known as the ‘London cut’ or ‘English drape’. They were ‘civil’ tailors who designed suits coats using softer fabrics which draped naturally from the shoulders, as opposed to the traditional tailors who made coats based on the principles of military tailoring, with high shoulders and stiff fronts, designed to make you stand to attention. The idea that a suit should be comfortable would not have been a primary consideration to a Victorian gentlemen.

The Prince recalled in his memoir, A Family Man, ‘My father and his generation, except when in the country, remained imprisoned in frock-coats and boiled shirts. All my life (until adulthood), I had been fretting against those constrictions of dress which reflected my family’s world of rigid social convention. It was my impulse, whenever I found myself alone, to remove my coat, rip of my tie, loosen my collar and roll up my sleeves – a gesture aspiring not merely to comfort, but in a more symbolic sense, to freedom’.

Some men may have thought it scandalous that a Dutchman and a Swede should be allowed to rewrite the rules of Savile Row tailoring. Their new look required a certain panache on the part of the wearer, and the Prince was the perfect model to polarize this.”

Click here to purchase the book on Amazon.

BESPOKE APPRENTICE WEBSITE

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We are pleased to be part of bespokeapprentice.com which officially went live yesterday. The website has been developed to provide a platform for young tailors and cutters in UK companies to share experiences, display exhibition work and to provide information to anyone considering a career in the industry.

It was a great opportunity for our apprentice cutters, Max and Matthew and apprentice makers Finnan, Liberty, Emily and Ashleigh to get involved and share their stories. All our apprentices are on a long but fulfilling journey learning invaluable skills from experienced mentors, and we are very proud of how far they have come.

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Apprentice Coat Cutter Max Castano

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Apprentice Trouser Cutter Matthew Borkowski

We often get young people contacting the shop to ask for advice about how to get into the bespoke industry, the website provides information on training, the processes involved and required skills. Learn more about colleges, careers, past events and what life is like for the new generation of tailors and cutters working on Savile Row and in The City.

Thanks to the CAPITB trust and all others who made the website possible. If you are one of those who wants to know more about becoming a bespoke tailoring apprentice or you are interested in reading the apprentices stories please visit the website here.

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Apprentice Coat Maker Liberty Clayton

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Apprentice Trouser Maker Finnan Lane

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Apprentice Coat Maker Ashleigh Jones

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Apprentice Coat Maker Emily Hayward

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Liberty with her mentor Jennie McWalter, Coat Maker

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Finnan Lane with his mentor Keith Smith, Trouser Maker

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Matthew with his mentor John Malone, Head Trouser Cutter

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Max with his mentor Danny Hall, Head Trouser Cutter

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Trouser Maker Michael Arter

ABC LEVEL 3 IN BESPOKE TAILORING DIPLOMA

Anderson & Sheppard ABC Course  (1)

For the last 18 months Matthew, Max and I have been working on completing our ABC Level 3 diploma in bespoke tailoring.

The course consists of two main units:

Unit one deals mainly with various working practices such as health and safety laws and regulations, work and employment legislations and also gaining an understanding of the contextual history of tailoring and Savile row.

Unit two deals with the practical side of tailoring. The unit depends on what your training in, Matthew is an apprentice Trouser Cutter, Max is an apprentice Coat Cutter and I am a apprentice coat maker.

My unit was focused on making a coat from conception to finished product. This involved learning the basic principles of cutting coats, research into the various styles and types of coats, their historical development, and gaining a proficient understanding of all the stages of making.

Susan Fraser guided us through the course helping us gather evidence through voice recordings, written reports and practical observations. My favourite part of the course was definitely having the opportunity to research and quiz Leslie Haynes and Ollie Trenchard about cutting!

Sue is now checking over our work to ensure everything is there and then our portfolios will be sent to an external moderator.

I’m so excited  its finished and that my work will be formally accredited. I’m so grateful to Sue Fraser for all her help and infinite patience with us!

TURN BACK CUFFS

When a job comes down to the workroom the first thing we do is look over the ticket. From time to time a customer might request a special detail on their jacket, such as turn back cuffs. Although turn back cuffs give the illusion of the edge of the sleeve being folded back, the cuffs are actually made up as a separate piece from the sleeve itself.

Before marking up and cutting out the turn back cuffs it is important to make sure that the grain of the cloth is laid exactly the same as that of the sleeve. If the cloth is a check, stripe or a herringbone then the cloth on the cuff must be a continuation of this.

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The shape of the curve is chalked freehand and the width of the turn back is decided. This is usually judged by where the first cuff button begins and also what we think will be a suitable width aesthetically. Once the turn back is marked up and cut out we then cut some lining on the bias and make them up. The cuff is made up similarly to the way a pocket flap is done.

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Once the cuffs are made up, turned through and pressed, they are basted in place to the job before attaching by hand. Doing this by hand allows a greater amount of manipulation to the cloth that you wouldn’t be able to achieve by using the machine and this is what adds beauty and charm to a bespoke piece.

We use hand silk on the reverse side of the sleeve to attach the cuff and when the sleeve is made up this is then covered with the lining. Hand silk is a lot stronger than machine silk and is used in a lot of the finishing of an Anderson and Sheppard jacket.

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Although it can sometimes be a time consuming extra to a job, its nice to have a challenge and make something slightly different. It is quite a rarity that we get customers requesting turn back cuffs, but once the job is made up it definitely gives an added elegance to a jacket.

PACKING THE CARNET

Anderson & Sheppard Carnet 2016 (4)

Once again it’s that time of year for us at Anderson & Sheppard; preparation for this year’s Spring trip to the U.S has been under way for a few weeks now.

With around 120-130 customers being given appointments it’s essential that we ensure all garments whether fittings or finishers are ready to be sent in the Carnet.

Leon, Oliver, Matthew and I have been packing the trunks over the past week. We have a look through the American diary and then cross check the garments. Once we have checked over that we then bring them upstairs and pack them in order of appointment.

This equates to nearly three hundred suits that Danny Hall, John Malone and Mr Heywood will have to fit over their two weeks stay in the US. The guys will be visiting New York, Washington and Boston from 18th April – 29th April.

We all wish them a safe and successful trip.

Anderson & Sheppard Carnet 2016 (1)Anderson & Sheppard Carnet 2016 (5) Anderson & Sheppard Carnet 2016 (3)

 

Artist:Artisan
A look at the Artist:Artisan exhibition at the Maison Mai Non Gallery. A collaboration...More
Golden Shears 2013
A look at Jennie McWalter's entry for The Golden Shears 2013More
HRH The Prince of Wales
A visit to the Bespoke Shop by HRH The Prince of Wales More
The Bespoke Shop
A look at the Bespoke Shop and the ordering processMore
Clifford Street
A look at our new Clifford Street ShopMore
Finnan
Finnan is an apprentice trouser maker under Keith Smith and... More
Oliver
Oliver is a trouser cutter at Anderson & Sheppard -... More
Sunna
Sunna recently finished her apprentiship as a tailor under Derrick... More
James
James was Front of House at Anderson & Sheppard and... More
Ollie
Ollie joined Anderson & Sheppard from Newham College as an... More
Jennie
Jennie is a coat maker at Anderson & Sheppard. She... More
Mr Hitchcock
John Hitchcock retired as Managing Director and Head Cutter at... More
Anda
Anda is the Vice Chairman of Anderson & Sheppard and... More
Audie
Audie runs the Clifford Street store and has 30 years... More
Emily
Emily joined Anderson & Sheppard in December 2011 and works... More
Conor
Conor joined Anderson & Sheppard in 2012 and works in... More
Ashleigh
Ashleigh joined Anderson & Sheppard as an apprentice coatmaker early... More
Emily H
Emily joined Anderson & Sheppard as an apprentice coat maker... More
Max
Max works for Head Cutter Danny Hall and is learning... More
Matthew
Matthew joined us in December 2013 straight after his A-Levels.... More
Mike
Mike is the full time Trimmer at Anderson & Sheppard.... More
Colin Heywood
Colin joined the firm in 1990 and is now Managing... More
Hajar
Hajar joined Anderson and Shepppard in September 2013 as an... More
Liberty
Liberty is one of our newest recruits. She works... More
Keith
Keith works at Anderson & Sheppard as a trouser maker... More
Michael
Michael has worked at Anderson & Sheppard for over 30... More
Michael Gardener
Michael Gardener has been a packer at Anderson & Sheppard... More
Martin Crawford
Martin joined Anderson & Sheppard in July 2014 and is... More