IN TO THE FINALS
We are proud to announce that Colin Heywood, our bespoke shop manager, is through to the final of the British Carp Angling Championships after six rounds of competitive qualifiers.
The semi-final heats are taking place on Barston Lakes in the Midlands. Barston is an incredibly prolific venue that, in the right conditions and on the right day, can produce massive weights. It is one of only 4 venues in the country to be in the 1000lb club during an official competition; the others being the famous Drayton reservoir, Thorpe Lea, and Elphicks North Lake. Colin and his teammate Steve Gee will compete in the finals on the 12th September at Wraysbury Nature Reserve in Surrey. We all wish them luck.
THE PACKAGE WE CALL A BUNDLE
As the Trimmer at Anderson & Sheppard, I take great pride in preparing the trimmings, including canvas, melton, linings and buttons.
I receive the cloth, that has expertly cut by one of our Cutters, together with a ticket, which details the customer’s details and needs. First I cut the horse hair, which is a small piece of canvas that goes over the shoulder and chest. Then I cut two pieces of domette, which is similar to felt and gives body to the shoulders. It also stops any horsehair piercing through the cloth.
Next I cut a small piece of Holland linen which becomes firm once pressed and which strengthens the pockets. I then select the materials for the collar. I choose and cut the undercollar melton making sure that I select the right weight and colour. To that, I add the collar canvas, which I always cut on the bias to make sure that the collar sits perfectly on our customer’s neck. We need to include two pieces of sylesia, which we use for pocketing. It has to be just the right thickness to withstand wear from keys, coins, pens or mobile phones. Linings are either chosen by the customer or chosen by us at their request.
We always to try to match linings to cloth but many customers prefer to choose something more personal. I have to make sure that the lining is suitable for the cloth’s weight. We add our special striped lining for the sleeves. To make our bundles, I wrap everything up in a large piece of body canvas and include the garment’s ticket. It is now ready for the tailor.
FOR FAR AWAY PLACES WITH STRANGE SOUNDING NAMES.
As in the song “Far away places with strange sounding names”, these beautifully cool Irish linen shirts are perfect anywhere and at anytime of day. There are twelve colours and the more they are washed the better they will be!
WHY I PREFER DOUBLE BREASTEDS.
As an apprentice under Mr Hitchcock for just under four years I have been fortunate enough to learn the classic cut of an Anderson and Sheppard double breasted jacket. Its an uncompromising garment that has stood the test of time. Flicking through the pages of our book A Style is Born you will see many examples of its stylish charm.
Being of a fairly tall stature I need to think carefully about the proportions of my clothes. A double breasted has a high enough opening to cut me off at the right point giving balance between my torso and legs. Here at Anderson and Sheppard we cut a generous lapel with belly which compliments the full chest that our drape provides and gives a dramatic swooping line drawing attention to the fitted waist. These lines together with a broad shoulder really help create a waisted silhouette that is very flattering.
This is the exact reason why any gentleman can wear a double breasted jacked. It helps even out the taller figure but also provides shape to the shorter and even more portly man. This is the reason why the cut of a “DB” is so important. Its meant to been worn buttoned up. This means the cutting and fitting must be exact as the jacket needs to move with you whilst being buttoned. It can’t be too tight or the pulls created across the mass of cloth would be unsightly. Its a delicate balance.
As a younger man and given the popularity of a double breasted amongst the older gentleman I find it helps me to stand out and gives a definite maturity to my style. There are ways of creating different looks with the jacket whilst maintaining the classic elegance. Show buttons can be eliminated, especially on a seersucker or sportier cloth, providing a cleaner more modern look. The wrap-over of the foreparts can be tweaked to change the opening and show more or less shirt. Plain cloths or wide stripes work very well with the look and compliment its lines especially in darker shades.
My next suit for work is a classic Anderson and Sheppard navy blue herringbone from our specials. There is enough detail in the cloth to make it interesting but the deep shade of navy keeps it very smart at all times.