INSIDE OUR CUTTING ROOM TODAY
Inside our cutting room today.
Managing Director Colin Heywood, Head Coat Cutter Danny Hall, Head Trouser Cutter John Malone, Trouser Cutter Oliver Spencer, Coat Cutter Ollie Trenchard, Apprentice Coat Cutter Max Castano and Accounts Clerk Stuart Gymer.
RETURN OF THE CARNET
Another year and another successful US trip comes to a close. With our senior staff safely back from America, now comes the return of the carnet.
For those that are unaware a carnet is our large shipment of garments that go out to the US cities that we visit, and our latest trip saw us visit San Francisco, Chicago and New York. Five trunks came back each containing around 50 suits showing the sheer volume of work we have endeavoured to produce.
With the return of the carnet now comes the time to unpack it. We must first see that all the garments are cross checked against our consignment information. Once this is complete we then get on to the task of stripping down all the fittings that were tried on. This ensures that any small tweaks are clearly marked for our tailors so they can move to produce the completed garment.
This is also true of the finished garments; with any alterations being marked up & wrote down for our reference. After this final task we can then proceed to send garments onto our customers or if preferred they will be taken on our next US trip to be seen by Mr Heywood, Mr Hall and Mr Malone.
SILK TURNBACK CUFF
Over the past few months I’ve had the opportunity to learn a wide range of new techniques. Jennie, my teacher works on a lot of specialist formal wear and I’ve been lucky enough to be able to assist her.
In the run up to Christmas and the New Year we always get more formal jackets to make such as smoking jackets, tailcoats and dinner jackets. One of my favourite things I have learnt whilst doing this is how to do the turnback cuffs.
This particular jacket I am currently working on is a Dark Bottle Green Shawl Collar Smoking Jacket. The cloth is Holland and Sherry 977047 14/15oz. I have made turnback cuffs with a variety of cloths and patterns like checks, linen, wool and velvet. They are a really nice addition to a jacket in any cloth and pattern but I most enjoy using silk to make the cuffs – especially if it has a wonderful mid green jacquard lining like this one.
I mark in the buttons and draw in the shape of the turnback, after this I transfer the markings onto cloth then sew the turnback. I place it onto the sleeve and then I proceed to finish making the rest of the sleeve.
It’s been great to gain some experience with velvet and silk as they are two challenging cloths. They move around a lot when sewing them and you can not press them as it would leave a mark. Working with more challenging cloths really improves my precision and accuracy, it’s an exciting part of the learning process.
G.J. CLEVERLEY & CO
Round the corner from us just off Old Bond Street in the Royal Arcade, is our favourite shoemakers G.J. Cleverley.
The bespoke shoemakers was set up in 1958 by Mr. George Cleverley after having already established a name for himself during his years at nearby shoe-maker Tuczek. George Cleverley was known for creating the chiselled square toe that is still to this day the shoemaker’s signature.
A pair of George Cleverley bespoke shoes can be designed in almost any material imaginable and any number of styles. The bespoke experience sees skilled shoemakers working with you to determine the exact size, shape, look and material you want in your shoes.
Outlines and measurements of your feet are taken to create a three dimensional map that will explore the best balance and support lines for your feet. A beech wood last is then carved encompassing every aspect of your foot, and the last is used to construct the first pair of bespoke shoes by various craftsmen specialised in different processes.
Once your shoes are finished, the last mold will remain at Cleverley’s so you can call any time, from anywhere and order a new pair of shoes in the material of your choice.
The company’s current owners, George Glasgow and John Carnera who succeeded Mr Cleverly in 1978, have continued to uphold the artistry and craftsmanship of the founder’s original bespoke designs. This is also evident in their other shoe ranges. Their semi bespoke Anthony Cleverley range and bench made ready to wear collection are both made to a high quality using the finest materials.
We collaborated with G.J. Cleverly to create two wonderful styles. The first a chiselled toe, laced ankle boot available in both horse chestnut and mid-brown leather and mole coloured suede. The second style, a Loro Piana cashmere slipper with a gently rounded chiselled toe in black, charcoal grey, navy and red.
Click here to visit G.J. Cleverley’s website.
FRONT OF SHOP AT 32 OLD BURLINGTON STREET
In the front of shop at 32 Old Burlington Street today, Front of House Martin Crawford, Cloth Coordinator William Lo and Accounts Clerk Stuart Gymer.