features
Golden Shears 2013
A look at Jennie McWalter's entry for The Golden Shears 2013
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HRH The Prince of Wales
A visit to the Bespoke Shop by HRH The Prince of Wales
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The Bespoke Shop
A look at the Bespoke Shop and the ordering process
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Clifford Street
A look at our new Clifford Street Shop
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top 5 articles about the notebook
contributors
Finnan
Finnan is an apprentice trouser maker under Keith Smith and... More
Oliver
Oliver is a trouser cutter at Anderson & Sheppard -... More
Sunna
Sunna recently finished her apprentiship as a tailor under Derrick... More
James
James was Front of House at Anderson & Sheppard and... More
Ollie
Ollie joined Anderson & Sheppard from Newham College as an... More
Jennie
Jennie is a coat maker at Anderson & Sheppard. She... More
Mr Hitchcock
John Hitchcock retired as Managing Director and Head Cutter at... More
Anda
Anda is the Vice Chairman of Anderson & Sheppard and... More
Audie
Audie runs the Clifford Street store and has 30 years... More
Emily
Emily joined Anderson & Sheppard in December 2011 and works... More
Conor
Conor joined Anderson & Sheppard in 2012 and works in... More
Ashleigh
Ashleigh joined Anderson & Sheppard as an apprentice coatmaker early... More
Emily H
Emily joined Anderson & Sheppard as an apprentice coat maker... More
Max
Max works for Head Cutter Danny Hall and is learning... More
Matthew
Matthew joined us in December 2013 straight after his A-Levels.... More
Mike
Mike is the full time Trimmer at Anderson & Sheppard.... More
Colin Heywood
Colin joined the firm in 1990 and is now Managing... More
Hajar
Hajar joined Anderson and Shepppard in September 2013 as an... More
Liberty
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THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN AT APSLEY HOUSE

 

The English Gentleman at Apsley House 24

Over the past few months the team at Anderson and Sheppard have been working hard organising the AW15 Savile Row Collections presentation for London Collections: Men. Working with The Woolmark Company, a selection of tailors from Savile row and with London’s best shirt and shoe makers. The collection saw over 50 models wearing bespoke creations meticulously constructed over a number of weeks.

This season for ‘The English Gentleman’ presentation we were fortunate enough to be hosted by the Earl of Mornington at Apsley House. This marvellous property also known as Number One London and the home of the first Duke of Wellington, was an apt venue to showcase the military and equestrian inspired designs that were on display. Each magnificent room in Apsley house showcased an abundance of beautiful art, elegant interior and a wealth of history that helped craft a story around the clothes.

As the exterior of the Apsley house is undergoing renovations in preparation for the bicentenary celebration later this year, guests were welcomed on site by models dressed as builders who manned the door with styled hard hats emblazoned with LCM on the front. One could fail to miss the giant marble statue of Napoleon as Mars the Peacemaker as you entered the Principal Staircase – a perfect way to start the tour of the house.

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The first models were placed on the stairwell and the presentation continued throughout the rooms.  In The Striped Drawing Room a model wore Anderson and Sheppard bespoke Wool Cavalry Twill trousers with grown on band and split tails cut by Oliver Spencer.

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Keith Smith, a trouser maker at Anderson and Sheppard for over 30 years who made the trousers, said:

“It was my first time making this type of trouser and I really did enjoy the experience. It was nice to make something different and get out of my comfort zone. When I saw them on the model they looked great so I was happy.”

The striped room also included models wearing two Anderson and Sheppard Jackets cut by Leon Powell.

A bespoke single-breasted grey graphite Hainsworth wool utility Jacket featuring a four-button fly front, four bellow pockets with flaps, slits at the side, pleats at the back with a half belt and worn with white wool melton trousers.

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The second was a bespoke single-breasted light blue pilot cloth Hainsworth wool 16/17oz jacket featuring a four button front, two patch pockets with pleats and flaps, two welt pockets and half lined in Escorial light grey cloth.

 

The Waterloo Gallery filled with dozens of amazing oil paintings hosted models in white tie at one end, and at the other were models in Trench Coats and Greatcoats.  Two Anderson and Sheppard coats, cut by Leon Powell were on display in the Waterloo Gallery.

One was a bespoke double –breasted 32oz Greatcoat in Abraham Moon & Sons navy British Warm wool featuring two patch pockets with flaps, slit at the back, box pleat to back seam, half belt and turn back cuffs.



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The other was a bespoke double breasted Trench Coat in Loro Piana waterproof Rainstorm treated mid brown wool featuring fly front, box pleats two patch pockets with flaps and lined in Loro Piana fine grey wool flannel.

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In the Yellow Drawing Room alongside the oldest surviving grand piano in the United Kingdom – The Americus Backers 1772, a model wore a bespoke single breasted three button wool Hacking Jacket cut by Ollie Trenchard. It was a fawn Fox Brothers Covert cloth, exclusive to Anderson and Sheppard and featured slits at the back, slanting pockets, an out ticket pocket and velvet collar.

The presentation was styled by Jo Levin and produced by Anda Rowland, Sammy Aki and Lloyd Almond.

View more pictures on the Savile Row Collections website: http://www.savile-row-london-collections.com/events/the-english-gentleman-january-2015/gallery

 

 


COAT MAKING APPRENTICESHIP

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The New Year brings me into the start of my 8th month as an apprentice coat maker at Anderson & Sheppard.  I’m excited to get even more experience this year, having learnt so much last year, getting familiar with the process of coat making  was all part of the course. Over the months I have learnt how to fix, canvas and baste coats and jackets; which are the first steps in the apprenticeship.  When the jackets come in they arrive in a bundle, so it is so rewarding to see the process of construction and know I am creating and learning at the same time.

I have done a lot over the last year that I have really enjoyed. There was a jazzy orange check jacket that was fun to make, but my favourite pieces to make have to be overcoats. They always look great and I love the shape of them.  It’s a similar process when fixing and canvasing most types of coats and jackets, but the overcoats are bigger so the material is heavier and there is more to handle.

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I’m looking forward to learning more about all the different jackets and coats and also getting onto the next phase. I will learn how to do the facing, which is handling the lapels and the lining of the different coats and jackets. After that I can progress onto the final stage – putting on the sleeves and the collar; which essentially completes the first part the apprenticeship.

I still have years to go before I complete my apprenticeship but I am really excited for them. I am learning to do what I am passionate about with great mentors and colleagues, so I look forward to all the opportunities and challenges that are soon to come.

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WINTER WEAR

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As the winter progresses, Anderson & Sheppard are overwhelmed with orders that reflect the season’s specials. Over the past months I’ve seen such warmth of cloth and garments that reflect the season’s atmosphere. The standard garment for winter is of course an overcoat, which is in fact not a simple choice.

Working in the trouser department I’ve seen such beautiful moleskin and corduroy trousers that I can’t imagine not wearing a pair on the cold winter nights in town.

What else is there for the festive season? How about a dinner suit for the champagne flowing parties we all wait for at this time of the year. Our special midnight blue herringbone house cloth, made only for us is most certainly the ideal cloth for a dinner suit.

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From thorn proof suits to corduroy trousers, ending with a dinner suit for a special party, it’s great to have the opportunity to create such wonderful pieces.

So on behalf of everyone at Anderson and Sheppard, have a happy new year and see you in 2015!

 


MY APPRENTICESHIP

 

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After studying at the London College of fashion, I started training as an apprentice coat maker under Peter Giorgiou in September 2013.

After completing my studies at the London College of Fashion, I was fortunate enough to have started an apprentice at Anderson and Sheppard under Peter Giorgiou, a master tailor who has now been passionately working as a bespoke tailor for 50 years and who still continues to work at such a high standard for the firm. To be able to work alongside such experienced tailors and cutters in the trade has inspired me to learn the craftsmanship of one of the oldest and strongest guilds of the country.

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Since I can remember I have always been interested in the arts and find great pleasure and satisfaction in being able to create something both aesthetically pleasing and functional, which is handmade and original. Craftsmanship is something which I admire in any kind of trade and is something which requires many different skills. To be of the craftsman’s creed, it takes patience, an eye for detail, and above all perseverance.

Despite being in the trade now for around 50 years, Peter insists that however many years you may have worked as a tailor, you will always have something new to learn. He believes that practice makes perfect and that one of the best ways to learn is by making mistakes along the way. After all these years of work, he still strives for perfection with every stitch. If something is not to his standard, it will be done and redone again until it faultless. As Peters apprentice, I can honestly say that his passion for this trade has rubbed off on me tremendously and I am very lucky to be working with such an inspiring and talented person.

It is fitting that the saying, “Never tire to study or to teach others.” is the phrase which is written on the left hand corner of his Chinese calendar, as it is exactly the kind of mantra he would use.

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SHETLAND SWEATERS

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Shetland sweaters have arrived at our haberdashery shop!

Our Shetland sweaters were so successful last year, so we have added some new colours along with the favourites, and there are more on the way.

Made in Scotland, these slim cut sweaters look great under a sports jacket with a pair of flannel or corduroy trousers.

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