Home | Anderson & Sheppard Blog

WORKING ON TROUSERS FOR CLIFFORD STREET
I’ve been involved with the development of our trousers at Clifford Street since 2011. The first pair I cut for the project were made up in white winter cotton and based on my own pattern.

We went on to develop different styles, inspired by some of our clients, that needed to vary in formality. Those with higher rises and wider widths, to those with lower rises and slimmer widths.

Since the opening of Clifford Street we now have four styles in stock. We have three further styles on their way including the ‘Brace back’ and the ‘Slouchy’ which has a low rise with a looser fit. A great summer trouser that sits on the hips like pair of jeans but in a linen hopsack.

It was so important to us that we found a factory for the production of our trousers that understood our DNA of what we strive to deliver. After a scrupulous search, we found a small yet quality fuelled Italian factory to partner with. They are fantastic to work with because they value attention to detail as much as we do. In fact when the trousers are made, they have specialists who concentrate on their particular part of the process and then pass the pair on to the next person for their input. At each junction in their making, they are pressed.

We have embraced colour with our trousers and as you’ll find when you come and visit Clifford Street there is something for everyone - whatever the time of year or climate that you live in. They come with unfinished bottoms, but with Michael and Keith, two of our tailors on site, it won’t be a long wait to have them finished to the length and style that you want them.

Posted by Oliver on May 20, 2013

Labels: Anderson & Sheppard, Clifford Street, trousers

PANAMA HATS

With so many social and sporting events coming up, and in preparation for the summer, Anderson & Sheppard Clifford Street is offering some beautiful Panama hats.

I leant recently that a Panama can only be a genuine Panama when it has been hand woven in Ecuador. Also that it takes 1 week to weave a single hat.

We have them in two shades: Natural and Tea. The first being a lighter, more classic shade; while the other is a little darker and more of a vintage look. The bands around the hats are rose pink or black, and chocolate or dark navy respectively.

With sizes from 57 to 63, they are the perfect accessory for the coming months.

Posted by Emily on May 13, 2013

Labels: accessories, Clifford Street, panama hats

MUSEUM OF ART RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN
Southeastern New England's only comprehensive art museum, the Museum of Art Rhode Island School of Design—also known as the RISD Museum—was established in 1877. Its permanent collection of more than 86,000 objects includes paintings, sculpture, decorative arts, costume, furniture, and other works of art from every part of the world—with objects from ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, and art of all periods from Asia, Europe, and the Americas, up to the latest in contemporary art.

Open from April 28^th until18th August 2013 is the first exhibition of its kind to focus on the persona and history of the distinctively dressed figure of the dandy. The exhibition features more than 200 objects including: innovative garments, bespoke clothing, works on paper, and paintings — drawn from the Museum’s collections and loans from individuals and national and international institutions. Beginning with the elegant dandy George “Beau” Brummell (1778-1840), the exhibition traces artist-dandies from the 19th to 21st centuries, exquisite craftsmanship in custom design, and the dandy’s role as both fashion icon and caricature.

With garments lent to it by the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, the exhibition breaks ground by emphasising the personalities of well known fashionable men, focusing on the enduring bond between identity, creativity, and self-presentation.

Anderson & Sheppard has had the pleasure of dressing two men featured by the exhibition – Fred Astaire and Lapo Elkann.

Fred Astaire's white tie (ca. 1933)

Fred Astaire, the world renowned Hollywood star of stage and screen, was an advocate of the A&S cut because of the softness and freedom it allowed for dancing. With a high armhole, and comfortable silloutte he was known to dance in the changing rooms to see how he could move in his garments.

Lapo Elkann's navy seersucker suit (2012) (left)

Lapo Elkann, the Italian Entrepreneur and Fiat heir, is equally renowned for his sense of style. His love of good clothes, his awareness for cut and indulgence in colour has handed him the crown of the modern day dandy.

“The exhibition and its companion book offer a sumptuous view of the power of clothing and fine craftsmanship. It comes at a time of renewed appreciation for the nuances and attention to detail of traditional tailoring but also innovation and boldness in menswear design. The dandy, a historical figure, is central to this development,” says RISD Museum Director John W. Smith.

Posted by James on May 6, 2013

Labels: Anderson&Sheppard, Dandy, Exhibition, Museum of Art Rhode Island School of Design

THE 12OZ MID GREY TRIPLE STRIPE
The mid grey triple stripe is back after a leave of absence and numerous requests. Designed exclusively for us by cloth merchant H. Lesser, in 2000 we refined the design by bringing the three stripes closer together along with keeping the dot making up the stripe, smaller. This made the design more intricate. From a distance this suit gives the impression of a classic bold stripe, but come closer and the rest of us see the detail making up the stripe.

Stripes are not just for the city and should remain a real favourite. If you’re building up a wardrobe you might prefer to start with your plain options – serge, pic n’pic (shark skin), birdseye or herringbone. But then comes the stripes.

If you’re looking for something exclusive, that you won’t find anywhere else then consider the S331 12oz Mid grey triple stripe.

Posted by Ollie on April 29, 2013

Labels: cloth, savile row, tailoring, worsted

ATTENTION TO DETAIL

What makes the difference between something being good versus excellent is its attention to detail. When it comes to the cloth, Mr. Hitchcock will match the design at every opportunity. While cutting he matches the two forepart pieces, the pockets, the sleeves, and the back. The jettings (the ridge directly above the pocket flap) are also matched to the fore part and pocket so as to demonstrate a continuous and uninterrupted design. This really is a skill and something that not all tailors go to the trouble of doing.

Some people ask me why making a suit takes so long? It’s because not only is everything tailored by hand, but it’s carried out to such a high level of attention to detail. Once a jacket has been made it goes to our Finishers for the final stages of its make. They will sew by hand every button hole, fell the collar and attach all the linings. Minuscule stitch work insures for a flawless finish.

For the purpose of a conventional jacket we have four button holes. Three of them will be working buttons and the fourth will not. This is done so that if there is a necessity to bring the sleeve length down, then we can. Reworking the configuration of the button placement.

The final element of attention to detail is the pressing. We give the finished garment a thorough check on all aspects at the pressing stage and check all the work meticulously before it leaves us.

Posted by Finnan on April 22, 2013

Labels: details, finishing, matching, pockets

Older Posts