As mentioned by Matthew, our trimmer Michael has been away so the task of trimming over the past month therefore fell to us. When I was first welcomed to Anderson & Sheppard; jacket trimming was something that was essential for any apprentice to grasp and understand. This first look into the extensive trimming side of the job was shown to me by both Mr Hall and our previous trimmer David Walters.
To begin with, the first step to trimming a jacket is by putting together a small selection of materials. You need a 40cm strip of Horsehair which is used for canvasing alongside two pieces of Domette, this is to help create body and structure in the jacket. From there you require a small strip of Holland Linen which is put in behind the pockets to prevent them from tearing away over time. The pocketing itself is cut into two lengths of 50cm and 25cm, with the person trimming the job deciding on which colour match is best. Then the last two pieces you need are the collar canvas which is cut on the bias. This allows the tailor to shape it to a specific size/shape and also a collar Melton which again is colour matched against the cloth.
From this point the jacket bundle can be made with a standard cut of 1.3m of the canvas being used along the lining. If left to our discretion traditionally we will match a lining closely as we can to the cloth choice. This then keeps the jacket both smart and classic. However as any of our customers know we have a wide range of linings in all colours, patterns and motifs, allowing the customer to further personalise their garments.
With all trimming materials and linings organised to the customers preference, we will proceed to put together in the form of the job bundle. This bundle is then ready for our tailors to begin their work. The job of the trimmer is as essential as any other in the company; and it’s important for everyone to have an understanding in what exactly goes into our garments. It is great to have Michael back at Anderson & Sheppard.