Finishing the fly

By Finnan on 29th July, 2015

It has been almost a year since I started my training as a trouser maker, and I can definitely say it has been a fast, fun year.  I have learnt so much from Keith and it has been great working with him and the other coat and trouser makers in our workroom at St George Street.

I was finishing the fly and thought I would give a quick outline of how it is done.

Sewing the Fork Linen

Fork liningFirstly I sew the fork linen onto the trousers, this is the section between the inside leg seam and the bottom of the fly. I sew the linen in with polyfil thread and then I sew the triangle tack at the bottom of the fly to strengthen it.


Checking the Waist and Chalking the seat line.

Finnan (2)

I then move onto checking the waist and chalking the seat line.


Checking Fly Length

Finnan (1)

This is where I line up both notches at the bottom of fly to check that the levels of the bands match at the top.


Baisting the Zip

Finnan (3)

We sew the zip in place with baisting thread, but this is only temporary to hold the zip before I sew it.

Sewing the Zip

Once I have used the baisting thread to sew in the zip, I then use hand silk to make it secure. You can see this is the video above.


Finished Fly