During the last few months I’ve been learning how to make the different types of fittings. I began by learning how to close the shoulders of the jacket and distributing the fullness evenly. After the closing of the shoulders we moved on to the under collar, the collar has to be stretched before being basted onto the jacket. The last component of fittings is the sleeves. The most challenging part has so far been the placement of the collar.
The objective of a fitting is for the customer to get an idea of what the finished garment will look and feel like and for the cutter to see what alterations are required. Most returning customers will have just a forward fitting before the jacket is completed.
There are three different types of fittings that might occur when ordering a suit.
The skeleton /rough baste
The pocket positions are shown using mark stitches. The jacket is still canvased to give it shape. But all the darts and side seams are ‘basted’ together temporarily. Skeleton basted jackets are created when the jacket is particularly unusual or the positioning of the pockets, hems or front edges are likely to change.
The pockets and darts are sewn into the jacket. This is used when a customer’s body shape has changed through weight loss or gain.
The facings are on the jacket, the pockets and darts are all sewn in and the seams are temporarily basted in.