Last week I talked about the inspiration for my entry in this year’s Golden Shears competition: a three-piece outfit comprising pink moleskin breeches, burgundy woollen waistcoat and grey herringbone Norfolk jacket. This week I’m going to explain some of the construction details involved.
The thing that took the longest was the quilting of the inside of the jacket. Normally the sewing involved on this is done by machine, or at least it was on the one example I’ve managed to find here at Anderson & Sheppard. You mark out the diagonal lines onto the lining using a ruler and then fold along each one, ironing each fold as you go. Then a layer of wadding, like we use in our shoulder pads, is placed underneath and you machine along the lines.
However I always prefer to do as much hand work as possible on my garments so I decided to stitch the corners of each little square of my quilting by hand, as you can see above. That took days. The lining of the trousers was all sewn by hand as well, even the edges of the pockets and attaching the zips at the bottom of the legs.
Breeches have patches on the inside of the knees, to protect against wear from riding. These were sewn on by hand, as were the chevron-shaped lines than run across the patches.
The Norfolk jacket has separate strips of cloth that run down both the front and back, under which the belt runs. These arc away from the waist and over the shoulders, but match the pattern underneath all the way. The patch pockets have pleated fronts and slanting flaps. The latter, together with the nipped-in waist and bulge of the breeches, should give a nice hourglass shape to the outfit.
Lastly, I found a suppler for the leather buttons that uses old material from leather footballs, which was a nice touch.