Over the past few months I’ve had the opportunity to learn a wide range of new techniques. Jennie, my teacher works on a lot of specialist formal wear and I’ve been lucky enough to be able to assist her.
In the run up to Christmas and the New Year we always get more formal jackets to make such as smoking jackets, tailcoats and dinner jackets. One of my favourite things I have learnt whilst doing this is how to do the turnback cuffs.
This particular jacket I am currently working on is a Dark Bottle Green Shawl Collar Smoking Jacket. The cloth is Holland and Sherry 977047 14/15oz. I have made turnback cuffs with a variety of cloths and patterns like checks, linen, wool and velvet. They are a really nice addition to a jacket in any cloth and pattern but I most enjoy using silk to make the cuffs – especially if it has a wonderful mid green jacquard lining like this one.
I mark in the buttons and draw in the shape of the turnback, after this I transfer the markings onto cloth then sew the turnback. I place it onto the sleeve and then I proceed to finish making the rest of the sleeve.
It’s been great to gain some experience with velvet and silk as they are two challenging cloths. They move around a lot when sewing them and you can not press them as it would leave a mark. Working with more challenging cloths really improves my precision and accuracy, it’s an exciting part of the learning process.