We often have a collection of spare collars here in the workshop. They tend to be the result of a customer changing his mind on something, for example wanting an extension collar on a tweed jacket because he has seen one in the shop, or somewhere else between one fitting and another.
I think extension collars are really nice. The left side of the collar is extended by three-quarters of an inch and rounded off, with a buttonhole in it, and a button is attached under the other side of the collar – so when the collar is popped up it can fasten across the throat. There is also a button under the extension side, so it can be buttoned under and hidden away.
The spare collars can often be reused on a new jacket because the back neck – the measurement from the shoulder seam to the back seam – is always around three inches at Anderson & Sheppard. You just need to press the collar to adjust the shape to the new customer.
If the collar stand is much bigger, because the customer has a longer neck, then it can’t be used, and of course this is only for an SB (single breasted) not a double breasted. The melton on the back of the collar has to be a good match for the cloth as well. But otherwise the collar is no different to the ones sent over to us from the main shop.