The collar stand that a particular customer has varies with the length of his neck. It can range from an inch to an inch and a half, depending on what best suits his proportions.
You would think that range in height would be noticeable, but because it sits so well with the size of the man in every other aspect, it isn’t obvious. You’d be much more likely to notice if the collar stand was too high on a short man, for instance – he would look bound by it. Whereas a short stand on a tall man would look insubstantial.
You notice this proportion when you are basting the jacket together to get ready for a forward fitting, particularly when closing up the shoulders. The line of the back meets the edge of the collar, noticeable by its stand, and you work in the fullness around its outside to make sure the tension is right. Too tight and it will cause the back of the jacket to bunch up; too loose and the collar will stand away from the neck.
Anderson & Sheppard always does the same length of back neck though – three inches from the shoulder seam to the centre seam in the back. You have to remember to add in a half inch extra for the inlay as well of course.
The fullness in the collar is added in until about two-and-a-half inches from the end, so the tightness and curve is more towards the back of the neck where it is needed.