As the Trimmer at Anderson & Sheppard, I take great pride in preparing the trimmings, including canvas, melton, linings and buttons.
I receive the cloth, that has expertly cut by one of our Cutters, together with a ticket, which details the customer’s details and needs. First I cut the horse hair, which is a small piece of canvas that goes over the shoulder and chest. Then I cut two pieces of domette, which is similar to felt and gives body to the shoulders. It also stops any horsehair piercing through the cloth.
Next I cut a small piece of Holland linen which becomes firm once pressed and which strengthens the pockets. I then select the materials for the collar. I choose and cut the undercollar melton making sure that I select the right weight and colour. To that, I add the collar canvas, which I always cut on the bias to make sure that the collar sits perfectly on our customer’s neck. We need to include two pieces of sylesia, which we use for pocketing. It has to be just the right thickness to withstand wear from keys, coins, pens or mobile phones. Linings are either chosen by the customer or chosen by us at their request.
We always to try to match linings to cloth but many customers prefer to choose something more personal. I have to make sure that the lining is suitable for the cloth’s weight. We add our special striped lining for the sleeves. To make our bundles, I wrap everything up in a large piece of body canvas and include the garment’s ticket. It is now ready for the tailor.