Over the past few weeks our trimmer, Michael Bison had been away due to a minor accident playing football. While he was gone we had a lot of work on our hands; however this experience has given me an insight into a lot of Michael’s work. Not only did we have to order specially sourced linings, but also the soft canvases as well as other trimmings that we use in our coats, and often in trousers if they are cut for braces or if a customer wants a really soft band.
If you are a customer at Anderson & Sheppard than you will most likely already know what goes into our trousers but if not then here is a brief insight into our trousers.
Let’s start from the top and work our way down. The band is almost always constructed using a “band stiffener” which is a trimming that allows the band to be held firmly in place. However, as already mentioned above, if the trousers are cut for braces we use canvas cut on the bias so one of our trouser makers can shape the band to the desired effect, which is the back of the band being raised. Canvas can also be put inside the band if our customer wants a really soft band.
The fly can be either made up using either a zip or buttons and the back of the bearer is covered with matching Silesia. The pockets are made up using either the same matching pocketing or white Silesia. This depends on a few factors such as the choice of cloth as well as personal preference.
The curtains are almost always made with lining chosen by the customer to go into the trousers as well as the inside of the coat. On the topic of lining in regards to trousers there are several options and they include bands and curtains, meaning the inside of the band as well as the curtains are made up with lining. Furthermore if a customer wishes we can line the top side of the trousers or line the trousers throughout the entire body. This is often determined by factors such as the feel of the cloth when worn as well as personal preference; which is a reoccurring factor in almost any choice possible.
As you can see there are endless choices to be made even in regards to the trimmings used. Starting from lining and ending on buttons, and although I have learnt a lot it is great to have Michael back with us.