As an apprentice under Mr Hitchcock for just under four years I have been fortunate enough to learn the classic cut of an Anderson and Sheppard double breasted jacket. Its an uncompromising garment that has stood the test of time. Flicking through the pages of our book A Style is Born you will see many examples of its stylish charm.
Being of a fairly tall stature I need to think carefully about the proportions of my clothes. A double breasted has a high enough opening to cut me off at the right point giving balance between my torso and legs. Here at Anderson and Sheppard we cut a generous lapel with belly which compliments the full chest that our drape provides and gives a dramatic swooping line drawing attention to the fitted waist. These lines together with a broad shoulder really help create a waisted silhouette that is very flattering.
This is the exact reason why any gentleman can wear a double breasted jacked. It helps even out the taller figure but also provides shape to the shorter and even more portly man. This is the reason why the cut of a “DB” is so important. Its meant to been worn buttoned up. This means the cutting and fitting must be exact as the jacket needs to move with you whilst being buttoned. It can’t be too tight or the pulls created across the mass of cloth would be unsightly. Its a delicate balance.
As a younger man and given the popularity of a double breasted amongst the older gentleman I find it helps me to stand out and gives a definite maturity to my style. There are ways of creating different looks with the jacket whilst maintaining the classic elegance. Show buttons can be eliminated, especially on a seersucker or sportier cloth, providing a cleaner more modern look. The wrap-over of the foreparts can be tweaked to change the opening and show more or less shirt. Plain cloths or wide stripes work very well with the look and compliment its lines especially in darker shades.
My next suit for work is a classic Anderson and Sheppard navy blue herringbone from our specials. There is enough detail in the cloth to make it interesting but the deep shade of navy keeps it very smart at all times.